After Inle we came through Bagan. Bagan has stupas (small buddhist temples) everywhere. Seriously, there are over 3000 of them in this one tiny area. They’re in various states of upkeep but are generally safe and open for exploration, as long as you’re okay with someone trying to sell you artwork or black market currency exchange. Also, I’m pretty sure I got a snakebite or some shit our first night so that’s something to watch out for too. We rented electric bikes, which is like a motorcycle only far, far gayer, and tore off all around town trying to see the sights. About halfway through, the power assembly fell out of mine and started riding the chain. To be honest I barely noticed – if it weren’t for the sound and subtle vibration you couldn’t even tell – that’s how underpowered they are (and how rural and rocky the terrain is). Then Shefali got a flat. They were cool about it, we went back to the hotel and owners came and dropped off another bike. We got back on track and then my battery ran out. It definitely got us some snickers and funny looks, this big furry gorilla trying to ride a tiny banana yellow bike uphill on a dirt road. It was something out of Barnum and Bailey, and my knees were literally banging into the handlebars if I wasn’t careful with my seating. In hindsight, I could see how it would have been humorous to witness. So as usual, a friendly stranger came to our aid and called the rental place to come rescue us. I’m not sure what he said to them but I like to think it was the Burmese equivalent of “Brown hawk down!! We need an extraction! Bring samosas!!!” Sunset is an experience, people climb up and onto the facades of the stupas in order to get a great view of the sunset. I’m generally callous and irreverent, but even I could tell that was probably disrespectful to the people of Myanmar as Buddhists as well as the stupas as religious monuments. Also, it’s probably a dumb idea, I mean it’s not like these things have recently posted certificates of inspection or anything. Anyway I can’t say I blame them – as elsewhere in Myanmar, the sunsets here are smoldering and gorgeous, and the scattering of tiny monuments in every direction and far into the horizon is perhaps one of the more arresting sights one can hope to experience halfway around the world on a whim taking a wild stab at adventure. Still no green beer which at this point may as well be made of Unicorn sweat and I’m starting to think is an elaborate and targeted hoax by either Anonymous or the guys who invented crop circles. We eventually made way toward Yangon with hopes of seeing one more city, but not before another early-morning, nauseating, ear-popping ten-hour bus ride.
[1] http://www.flickr.com/photos/97388931@N08/sets/72157642416443635/